CWT – day 9

5.5.2023 Friday

Loch na Seilge – Sandwood bay

35 km – 900 m ↑ – 375 km total

I don’t sleep at all during the night, the wind’s howling terribly and I keep waking up. Around five it shifts direction a bit and it looks like it is going to tear the tent apart and blow it away. I quickly get up, pack everything and I’m on the road by 5:40. Got maybe 2-3 hours of sleep. The relentless wind continues. So do I. I descend to Loch Stack, where there are a few houses. If I’d known yesterday, I’d have carried on all the way here. I could probably hide somewhere behind one of the houses here.

I continue around Loch Stack heading northeast, into the wind. I curve northwest along Loch a’Gharbh-bhaid Mòr and the wind’s now at my back. Around eight it seems to ease off a bit, so I sit down for breakfast on the lake shore. After about 3 hours I reach the village of Rhiconich, from where it’s 6 km on asphalt to Kinlochbervie. A dull stretch, just cars passing me by. In Kinlochbervie I go to the shop for beer (Orkney IPA) and some treats for my last evening. I also stop at the café Worth the Look (spoiler: it’s not worth it) and have an English breakfast and black tea.

Still 13 km to Sandwood bay, almost half of it on asphalt. I take it slow, it’s still early. I reach Sandwood bay just before three o’clock.

A gorgeous sandy beach at the end of the road. There are sand dunes and sheep grazing around. The sun’s finally out and I’m making the most of it. Only three o’clock, so I find a spot where the wind’s not as strong and go for a swim.

The Atlantic’s exactly as cold as you’d expect. A gorgeous spot when the sun’s out, 10/10. From the cliffs above there’s a stunning view over the sea.

I consider sleeping here, but it’s still blowing hard, and after last night I’m not keen on risking it again. I check the map for the last bothy, Strathchailleach. Around 2-3 km, easy.

A hermit named James Macrory-Smith lived in this bothy for 32 years, heating it with peat and once a week walking 20 km to the shop for supplies. All he left behind is this little cabin along with his artwork. Inside I meet 5 gentlemen — 3 older ones, 60+, from Scotland, and 2 younger fifty-something from England. The guys have got a peat fire going, and we sit around drinking beer and chatting. Good times.

Tomorrow Cape Wrath, and the end of my journey.