CWT – day 3
29.4.2023 Saturday
Barrisdale bothy – Morvich Allt an Leoid Ghaineamhaich
39 km – 1610 m ↑ – 123 km total
I wake up around seven. It blew hard all night, glad I slept indoors. I say goodbye to the group, pay up, and head off around eight. The first stretch today is up and down along the Loch Hourn coastline, about 10 km. The trail’s decent, water running over it in places, but it’s easy to walk on.
Near the end it’s overgrown with rhododendrons. I wouldn’t want to be doing this in the rain. Ultra runners come running from the other way, finishing their three-day race in Inverie today. On the loch I spot 2 Dutch guys with bikes and inflatable boats, paddling across the lochs and traveling around Scotland that way. Some guys at the bothy told me about them yesterday.
Around 10:30 I reach Kinlochhourn. Nothing much of interest here, just a few horses and ponies, so I don’t stop and continue to climb up Forcan Ridge. The first 10 km is a regular, fairly dry farm track, but after crossing a bigger ford it starts vanishing. Seems like this is going to be the pattern here — farm track first, then narrow path, then nothing. About halfway up the climb I meet Nick from the north of England. He’s 54 and walks better than me 😁. He and his wife have done 210 of the 300 munros — munro is being every Scottish hill over 914 m (3,000 ft). People collect them here like Pokémon (so-called “bagging”). Nick and I reach Forcan Ridge, the highest point of my route, together around midday. It’s foggy up there and orientation’s tough. I use my phone with a map and GPS, but Nick navigates purely by map, compass and a guidebook. I take a short break, but there’s zero view, so no point dragging it out.
I say goodbye to Nick and start descending toward Shiel Bridge. The way down starts with a nice rocky traverse with a little wall, then more water and mud show up further along. I ended up on my butt three times. The scenery makes up for it though.
I reach Shiel Bridge after 4pm. Finally I’ve got signal and call home to Danka and the kids, instantly puts me in a better mood. I don’t stop in Shiel Bridge, continuing a bit further along asphalt to Morvich. In Morvich there’s a fantastic little shop, Kintail Crafts, with literally everything. I’m buying one extra pair of woollen socks, because I won’t be wearing those waterproof ones on my feet anymore (at most as slippers). I restock dried meat, also grab cheese, crisps and a local beer. Right next door is a local restaurant, and after three days I opt for a hot meal. I order a bowl of soup and some toast with bacon and onion. To go with it, a Skye Red and a Skye Gold beer. It’s half past 5 and I still have nowhere to sleep. I continue toward Falls of Glomach, looking for a suitable camping spot.
Two wild black goats cross my path in the forest, but when they spot me, they leap over the fence and run off. I’m not sure who was more startled. After about 7 km, I finally come across a little spot by the Allt an Leoid Ghaineamhaich stream. The soles of my feet were quite sore today. When I take off my shoes, I also find a blister on my big toe. I wash up and change my plasters. If I manage to keep my feet dry for at least a little while, it should be fine. I’m sitting on my sleeping mat with my feet on the grass; straight away, about 20 tiny ticks start crawling all over me – I have to keep an eye on them. I have dinner, write in my diary and go to sleep. Another long day awaits tomorrow.
