GR 221 – day 1

Our first destination in 2024 is Mallorca. It wasn’t really planned, but the flight tickets were cheap, and we assumed it would be warmer than in Slovakia, though that might not be the case. We’re going there for a bit of nostalgia. I was there six years ago for an Erasmus exchange, and Jozef was there five years ago on this same hike. In fact, it’s partly thanks to Mallorca that we started chatting, because I was curious about how his experience was, and now we’re going to do it together. I did most of the planning yesterday.

The route goes through the Serra de Tramuntana mountains. The official trail runs from Port d’Andratx to the town of Pollença and is 120 km long. I’ve planned a route of over 200 km because I want to visit the northernmost point, Cap de Formentor, and the beach at Sa Calobra. The daily distances are quite ambitious, but we’re traveling very light. We only have carry-on luggage, so we’re not bringing a tent or trekking poles, and the backpacks weigh 5 kg each without food and water. The smaller one is Jozef’s, but his is actually heavier.

I have a few aches and pains, but I tell myself that seven days of hiking from morning until night and sleeping outdoors should take care of it.

Monday, 26th February 2024

Bratislava – Port d’Andratx

The alarm is set for 4 AM. I wake up feeling fine, not like I’m going to work. Everything is packed, so I just braid my hair into two French braids. We arrive at the station two minutes before the train leaves—this is our compromise. I would normally sprint to catch the train, while Jozef would already be there 10 minutes early. I nap for a bit on the train, and the ride passes quickly. We arrive in Bratislava at 7:00, so we grab a coffee and a croissant. Our bus doesn’t leave until 8:45, so we walk up to the castle and sit on a bench in the sun. We still have plenty of time, so we wander around the airport, quickly pass through security, and wait.

The flight is on time, at 12:00 PM. I sleep through the whole trip. I dream that the airport in Palma is on a steep hill, and we’re hurtling down it, but in reality, we land smoothly. It’s raining outside. The airport is really big but empty, and it takes us a while to find our way out. The bus to the city arrives right away. Memories of places we used to visit come flooding back. We get off near a Decathlon store where we plan to buy a gas canister, a knife, and sunscreen, but they don’t have anything. So, we rush across the city center to another sports store, which is just coming out of siesta. Afterward, we quickly buy food and head to the bus. The store only sells a pack of 4 knives for 1€, so we get those along with baguettes, salami, cheese, ketchup, and mustard. We find the bus easily, and you can pay by tapping your card when boarding and exiting, so no need to deal with tickets. They’re having some issues with it, though, so we wait 20 minutes, but the bus makes up the time on the highway, and we arrive in Port d’Andratx an hour before sunset.

Port d’Andratx – Sant Elm

7,4 km

I start tracking the route on my watch. Jozef had to send his watch in for repairs, so the navigation is up to me, but I manage to get it working, so it’s all good. We begin by walking along the pier, then gradually start climbing on an asphalt road, winding through switchbacks, and eventually steeply uphill through a pine forest. I could really use those trekking poles—it’s quite hard. After 2 km, we switch to a more pleasant path. There’s no one around, birds are singing, and the sun is setting. It’s idyllic.

We’re already looking for a place to sleep. Our goal is to reach a small shelter. We pass a rocky overhang with a stone enclosure just big enough for two people. We decide to stay there. It’s supposed to rain during the night, but we should be fine.

First, we have a baguette because we’re pretty hungry. Then Jozef sets up our stuff while I write. Later, he makes instant noodles. I change clothes in the meantime, and out of the corner of my eye, I notice some flashes. There’s a lighthouse, so I think it’s from that. But no, soon I see some really ominous lightnings—it’s a storm. Jozef doesn’t believe me at first, but then he notices it too. We quickly pack up and head to the shelter, 800 meters away, with our headlamps. The shelter is locked. The village is 2.5 km away. After 1 km, we find an abandoned building. It’s locked, but it has a roofed area. We set up there, brush our teeth, and go straight to bed.