Strathchailleach bothy – Cape Wrath lighthouse

11 km – 350 m ↑ – 386 km total

A night spent in a bothy is a pleasant change. I slept like a baby. In the morning the wind’s finally died down outside of the bothy and it’s warm. I take my time with breakfast, plenty of time today. I say goodbye to the gentlemen and set off north toward Cape Wrath around half past eight. There’s no proper path in this section, just a few animal tracks. Doesn’t really matter which one I pick, as long as I keep heading north. Bogs, little streams and peat everywhere.

Luckily it hasn’t rained heavily for a while, so it’s relatively dry. I navigate by map and GPS. After about 3 km I enter UK Ministry of Defence territory (a live firing range), which gets closed off a few times a year. Clear skies, gorgeous views, so I just soak it in. I run up a small hill, Sithean na h-Iolaireich (231 m), from where I can already see the lighthouse tower.

Almost there now. From the top I plan my final route. Then it’s just a short trek through a few more bogs and streams. I reach a broken-up asphalt road with one last kilometer ahead. The Cape Wrath lighthouse emerges around a bend, and beyond it, nothing but ocean. The real end of the world.

I arrive at a half-abandoned compound with several buildings. No one’s around at first, but there are already some backpacks leaning against a wall. There’s a café here, Ozone Café, and you can even stay the night. John and Angela Ure, father and daughter, live here year-round taking care of everything.

At the café I ask for a beer and some fridge magnets. Turns out you grab the beer yourself . I sit down next to a guy (I think his name’s Steve), who also finished the trail today. We chat and I notice he’s got an older DSLR camera with no lens cap. I pull one out of my pack — two days ago I happened to find it lying on the road near Loch Stack, you can’t make this stuff up. He buys me a beer and we wait to see if a ride shows up. More hikers doing the CWT are coming, plus a group that only walked from Kinlochbervie. Around 1 pm a minivan arrives with tourists from the town of Durness. It’s full, so I’m slowly coming to terms with the fact that I won’t be able to leave until three. I’d honestly stay longer, except my flight’s tomorrow and it’s a fair distance away. Lucky for me, one guy has time to spare and stays behind at the café for a beer, so I take his spot instead. The driver calls me “Mr. Fort William guy,” since I mentioned needing to get there today. The road to Kyle of Durness is 15 km and takes about an hour. There a boat picks all of us up and take us across the bay.

A group of tourists from Inverness offers me a ride there. I’m thrilled not to have to hitchhike and jump straight into their car. In Inverness I catch a bus to Invermoriston, just an hour from Fort William, where Tom picks me up. The trip back, the part I’d worried about most, was surprisingly quick — just needed a bit of luck with the right people.

By ten I’m already sitting with a beer at Peťa’s place at Glen Nevis Campsite. I get chatting with Sam, who’s just finished the West Highland Way, and after a while Peťa joins in too. It’s great here, but it’s time to head home. Looking forward to the kids and Danka, I’ve really missed them these last few days.

The journey home

7.5.2023 Sunday

I can’t wait. Just as much as I looked forward to this trip, I’m looking forward to going home now. Scotland’s beautiful, the people are kind. I met so many great, interesting people along the way. What surprised me was the number of older people on the CWT — you don’t meet nearly that many on the Slovak SNP Trail. Overall I’d rate the trail as tough, especially in bad weather. With 2 extra days I’d have had a more relaxed pace — the ideal time for it is around 2 weeks. This year, even by Scottish standards, it was very dry (my shoes were wet every single day regardless), so I had it somewhat easier. The weather worked out for me too, maybe 2 days of rain total. If you want to experience the true vastness and isolation of the Scottish landscape, I’d definitely recommend the CWT. Maybe I wouldn’t stick so strictly to the official route next time, and with good weather I’d head up a to some Munros — plenty of them along the way. Hopefully I’ll be back here someday. Thanks to Jožko and Mária for lending most of the lightweight gear for the trail, to Peťa for the fantastic accommodation, and to my Danka for holding things together at home on her own with three children, whilst also being pregnant.

I hope you enjoyed these lines at least a little. I’m no writer, but this is one of my ways of holding onto memories too.

Dávid

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Loch na Seilge – Sandwood bay

35 km – 900 m ↑ – 375 km total

I don’t sleep at all during the night, the wind’s howling terribly and I keep waking up. Around five it shifts direction a bit and it looks like it is going to tear the tent apart and blow it away. I quickly get up, pack everything and I’m on the road by 5:40. Got maybe 2-3 hours of sleep. The relentless wind continues. So do I. I descend to Loch Stack, where there are a few houses. If I’d known yesterday, I’d have carried on all the way here. I could probably hide somewhere behind one of the houses here.

I continue around Loch Stack heading northeast, into the wind. I curve northwest along Loch a’Gharbh-bhaid Mòr and the wind’s now at my back. Around eight it seems to ease off a bit, so I sit down for breakfast on the lake shore. After about 3 hours I reach the village of Rhiconich, from where it’s 6 km on asphalt to Kinlochbervie. A dull stretch, just cars passing me by. In Kinlochbervie I go to the shop for beer (Orkney IPA) and some treats for my last evening. I also stop at the café Worth the Look (spoiler: it’s not worth it) and have an English breakfast and black tea.

Still 13 km to Sandwood bay, almost half of it on asphalt. I take it slow, it’s still early. I reach Sandwood bay just before three o’clock.

A gorgeous sandy beach at the end of the road. There are sand dunes and sheep grazing around. The sun’s finally out and I’m making the most of it. Only three o’clock, so I find a spot where the wind’s not as strong and go for a swim.

The Atlantic’s exactly as cold as you’d expect. A gorgeous spot when the sun’s out, 10/10. From the cliffs above there’s a stunning view over the sea.

I consider sleeping here, but it’s still blowing hard, and after last night I’m not keen on risking it again. I check the map for the last bothy, Strathchailleach. Around 2-3 km, easy.

A hermit named James Macrory-Smith lived in this bothy for 32 years, heating it with peat and once a week walking 20 km to the shop for supplies. All he left behind is this little cabin along with his artwork. Inside I meet 5 gentlemen — 3 older ones, 60+, from Scotland, and 2 younger fifty-something from England. The guys have got a peat fire going, and we sit around drinking beer and chatting. Good times.

Tomorrow Cape Wrath, and the end of my journey.

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Inchnadamph – Loch na Seilge

40 km – 2250 m ↑ – 340 km total

A proper windstorm’s blowing since morning, was rough at night too. The tent walls kept pressing against my sleeping bag, which got a bit damp because of it. I pack up the tent and head off before eight toward Bealach na h-Uidhe pass.

The climb is about 500 meters of elevation, a classic hiking trail. Couldn’t see a thing at the top, all wrapped in cloud, wind howling. Probably would’ve been beautiful yesterday. I don’t linger, just a short rest below the summit in an emergency shelter.

The way down is genuinely steep, slippery with mud, and the wind is really unpleasant. On the left there’s also the Eas a’ Chùal Aluinn waterfall, apparently the tallest in the UK (200 m), but with the water low and the wind blowing it doesn’t look nearly as impressive as Falls of Glomach. I descend all the way down to the sea — Loch Beag and Loch Glencoul.

There’s another bothy near Glencoul, where I take shelter from the wind and eat lunch-slash-breakfast. Still blowing hard, in this odd way from land toward the sea, whipping up waves out into the ocean. I continue along a ridge by the coast toward Loch Glendhu. The wind at least tears the clouds apart and the sun comes out. There’s another bothy at Glendhu, where I take a short break from the wind.

I’ve already got over 20 km in my legs today. I continue 5 km along the coast with wind at my back, then turn north for another 7 km toward the turn-off for Ben Dreavie. The whole stretch is on a farm road with a crosswind. Exhausting. The climb up Ben Dreavie is fine, there’s even a proper trail. From the top there’s a lovely 360-degree view in every direction, small lochs scattered everywhere.

There’s no trail on the way down, but it’s beautiful and remote here. If it weren’t blowing so hard I’d camp somewhere around here. I search for a sheltered sleeping spot but don’t have much luck. Pitching and securing a tent in this wind is no joke. Eventually I find a small spot 5 km further, below Loch na Seilge — we’ll see how the night goes.

Dnes to bolo veľmi unavujúce, vietor do tvare alebo do chrbta, a občas ma až zrážalo z nôh. Ťažký deň s najväčším prevýšením. Krásne scenérie, ale keby som mal mať takýto celý týždeň, tak asi sa na to vykašlem. Zajtra predposledný deň, blížim sa k cieľu.

Today was really exhausting, wind either in my face or my back, sometimes strong enough to knock me off my feet. Tough day with the biggest elevation gain yet. Gorgeous scenery, but if I had to do a whole week like this, I’d probably give up. Tomorrow’s the second-to-last day, getting close to the finish now.

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Schoolhouse bothy – Inchnadamph

40 km – 800 m ↑ – 300 km total

I really don’t feel like it this morning, waking up pretty stiff and beat up. After breakfast I set off after eight. Today’s first stretch is toward Oykel Bridge, about 6 km of regular farm road.

From Oykel Bridge I continue another 15 km alongside the Oykel river, first a farm road, later a path along the bank. Looks like plenty of anglers come here, there are little huts for them. I think they fish for salmon here. By noon I’m at Loch Ailish and have lunch. Sunny, so I rest for a bit.

In the afternoon I start climbing into the mountains. 10 km still along the river, up to the slopes of two munros, Ben More Assynt and Conival. Feels more like the High Tatras here now. I take the climb easy, plenty of time left today. Halfway up on the right side of the valley the trail turns off to the right, though my guidebook says to go straight up the hill, off-trail. I weigh my options, but given my previous experience wandering through bogs, I stick with the trail. It leads me right beneath the Ben More Assynt massif, where is a small tucked-away loch, Dubh Loch Mòr.

I rest at this fantastic spot and continue traversing beneath Conival to Beallach Trallgil pass. Have to say, this route’s a lot smarter than going straight up. The way down is more or less easy, following the stream of the same name, a few steeper sections but nothing serious. About half an hour before my destination a shower rolls in. My right Achilles is starting to bother me a bit on the way down — we’ll see what tomorrow brings.

In Inchnadamph I buy a bit more food, and the local hostel happens to be serving dinner for hikers, so I stay. We have lasagne, yum! I run into old acquaintances from Shenavall bothy there — Daniel and Nick, who shortened their route with a bus from Ullapool (they covered 20 km, I did 80 ). We have a beer, chat a bit, and I slowly go set up my camp outside. I find a decent spot 5 minutes above the hostel by a small stream, wash up and write my diary. Outside is warm, still a bit of drizzle, and midges have shown up too. Good day, good evening too.

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Shenavall bothy – Schoolhouse bothy

46 km – 1215 m ↑ – 260 km total

I’m woken in the morning by a dog licking my face as it passes by. I have breakfast and set off around half past 7. Straight up steeply from the bothy toward the pass, then zigzagging through bogs, all the way to the village of Dundonnell. Beautiful weather all day today, so I really enjoy it.

Behind me are a couple of huge peaks, Sgurr Fiona and An Teallach, both over a thousand meters, looking really tempting. Next comes another climb heading east over rolling plateau. Then around Loch an Tiompain and very steeply down into Inverlael.

I’ve already covered half of today’s journey. I reach the main road into Ullapool, which is fairly busy, so I try hitchhiking. It takes another 2 km to stop a car. Sam picks me up, we chat a bit. He drops me right in front of a pub in Ullapool. I need to charge my phone and power bank, so I sit down for a beer and a cider, and have a mackerel pâté sandwich too. Then I wander around the town a bit and buy a few things for dinner at Tesco. Ullapool is the last decent-sized town on Scotland’s northwest coast, with a ferry departing from here to the Hebrides.

Around four I set off again alongside the Ullapool river, sun is warm, walking is well, so I push on. I start on asphalt through the valley by Loch Achall, later I climb around Loch an Daimh.

By the first loch I’m tempted to go for a swim, since it’s still fairly warm. After 18 km and 4 hours I reach Knock Dampf bothy on the shore of Loch an Daimh — looks nice, but it’s a lovely evening and the next bothy is only 6 km away, that’s doable. The sun’s setting, creating gorgeous golden light.

Starts blowing pretty hard though. The track’s a regular 4×4 the whole way, puddles everywhere. Just before nine I finally reach Schoolhouse bothy.

There are two guys from Edinburgh here, plus a Hungarian couple next door. Kai runs up and down hills collecting munros. Nigel’s an even bigger extremist, collecting every hill in Great Britain over 150 m — there are 1,600 of them and he’s only got 32 left. I didn’t even ask what they do for a living, that lets them spend weeks off in the middle of nowhere in northern Scotland. Guess I’m doing something wrong. I take a wash in the stream before dinner, something I try to do every day, and go to sleep.

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Craig – Shenavall bothy

45 km – 1200 m ↑ – 214 km total

I wake up in a soft bed around seven. Really don’t feel like leaving it. There was some mild snoring from roommates in the night, luckily I had earplugs. I slowly eat breakfast, porridge and black tea. I set off around eight. First few km on asphalt, then I turn north toward Coulin pass. The sun finally comes out, along with the views, and my mood instantly improves.

First 2 hours I walk on a farm road. I tell myself that Kinlochewe should be an easy 3 hours away. I enter some kind of forest reserve where they’re trying to restore native woodland. Seems to be working in places, since the trail’s brutal — a stretch through heather and bog.

I curse for solid 2 hours before reaching Kinlochewe. There I buy fresh fruit — I’m properly sick of dried raisins by now. I continue northeast and then north through the Abhainn Gleann na Muice river valley. The road is boring and I have annoying headwind in my face. But the sun’s out, so I’m happy, sitting down in wind shelters I find here and there. After 15 km along the valley I reach about 300 m elevation near Lochan Fada, and an epic view of the surrounding munros opens up.

I feel like Aragorn, chasing orcs across Middle-earth alongside Gimli and Legolas — that’s exactly how it looks like here. Probably the most beautiful stretch so far, maybe thanks to the sunshine too. I take it in for quite a while, but I need to keep moving. Bealach na Croise pass awaits. The climb goes fairly well, with a whole pile of stone cairns along the way.

The moment I reach the top I lose the trail — pure navigational hell. More peat bogs here, plus a deep gorge with a stream cutting through.

I wander around here for about an hour, then find a fairly nice, but wet, trail around Loch an Nid, and I’m almost at Shenavall bothy. The road feels endless, and every time I think I’ve made it, it turns out to be a different house, with Shenavall still 2 km further.

Around seven I reach Shenavall, another incredible spot, a wide valley ringed by giants. There are already 4 people in the bothy (Daniel and Nick) plus a dog, and then 4 more arrive. I finally get to experience a proper Scottish sunset over Loch na Sealga.

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Morvich – Craig

46 km – 1636 m ↑ – 169 km total

First night in the tent. A shower wakes me before six in the morning and I can’t get back to sleep. There’s condensation in the tent, I try wiping it down but don’t have much luck. I pack up and set off toward Falls of Glomach without breakfast. Not raining yet. After about an hour I reach the falls. The trail’s decent so far, the falls are fairly popular with tourists. Around eight I already hear the roar of water and reach the falls. Amazing — biggest I’ve ever seen! Water drops 120 m into a gorge. I stop here a while, soaking it in.

I spot more black mountain goats on the opposite hill. The descent is properly steep over rocks — would be unpleasant in rain, but it only starts raining once I’m down. I cross a bridge over the Elchaig river and turn northeast toward Iron Lodge and Maol Bhuide bothy.

The route has several variants and I pick one of the easier ones. At ten I have breakfast under a tree by the road, and at eleven it starts raining, or rather, just a light drizzle. Around Iron Lodge I climb steeply on a decent 4×4 track to a small pass and then descend gently down to the bothy. It rains the whole way and my feet are wet again, even the track starts looking more like a stream, which I have to hop across several times. Around half past 12 I reach Maol Bhuide bothy, a magical spot in the middle of nowhere, nothing but silence. If I weren’t in a hurry I’d sleep here.

But I still have at least 20 km to go. A short distance from the bothy, I have my first proper wade across the River Ling, but my boots are already wet, so it doesn’t matter. On the other side, I lose the path almost immediately and find myself in a maze of deep peat bogs and stinking marshes. I test the depth with my walking sticks, but I certainly wouldn’t want to fall in there. I walk carefully, going round whenever I can.

I need to climb a bit higher, but it’s far from easy. 2 km takes me about 40 minutes. I finally manage to get out of there and find my way to Loch Calavie. Around the loch it’s back to a nice 4×4 track, though it keeps raining. Past Loch Calavie I again choose the northern route variant, turning toward Bhealach Bhearnais pass (600 m). The path climbs slowly, Bearnais bothy visible on my left. It clears up a bit and in the distance I spot 2 hikers heading toward it. The trail switches again from track to a shepherd’s path along the right side of the slope.

After about an hour of climbing a cloud full of rain and wind suddenly rolls right over me. I’m at 400 m with another 200 to go to the pass. The trail gradually vanishes again, even worse in the fog. There are these huge piles of rock here, probably glacier-formed, all looking identical. I’m slowly losing track of up and down. I have to use navigation and mapy.cz to know which direction to hold. I reach the pass and I’ve had quite enough for today. It’s half past 4, I have got nowhere to sleep, and I don’t feel like pitching a tent in the rain. I push on until I figure something out. On the way down the trail’s clear again and pretty steep. I cross the Allt a’Chonaris stream over a rope bridge.

You can camp here, one tent’s already pitched. I check the map. Craig should be just 10 km along a good track from here. I happen to notice I’ve got signal, so I call Danka and the kids, and the walk passes much faster after that I knock on Garry’s hostel door in Craig around half past 7. Gary opens up and stares at me a while, deciding whether to even let me in. Odd guy, but he takes me in. He’s got a drying room, a shower and a soft bed. Strict rules for everything. I shower, eat, and plan tomorrow. My feet feel a lot better, but I’ve got the feeling my knee’s starting to play up a bit – we’ll see in the morning.

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Barrisdale bothy – Morvich Allt an Leoid Ghaineamhaich

39 km – 1610 m ↑ – 123 km total

I wake up around seven. It blew hard all night, glad I slept indoors. I say goodbye to the group, pay up, and head off around eight. The first stretch today is up and down along the Loch Hourn coastline, about 10 km. The trail’s decent, water running over it in places, but it’s easy to walk on.

Near the end it’s overgrown with rhododendrons. I wouldn’t want to be doing this in the rain. Ultra runners come running from the other way, finishing their three-day race in Inverie today. On the loch I spot 2 Dutch guys with bikes and inflatable boats, paddling across the lochs and traveling around Scotland that way. Some guys at the bothy told me about them yesterday.

Around 10:30 I reach Kinlochhourn. Nothing much of interest here, just a few horses and ponies, so I don’t stop and continue to climb up Forcan Ridge. The first 10 km is a regular, fairly dry farm track, but after crossing a bigger ford it starts vanishing. Seems like this is going to be the pattern here — farm track first, then narrow path, then nothing. About halfway up the climb I meet Nick from the north of England. He’s 54 and walks better than me . He and his wife have done 210 of the 300 munros — munro is being every Scottish hill over 914 m (3,000 ft). People collect them here like Pokémon (so-called “bagging”). Nick and I reach Forcan Ridge, the highest point of my route, together around midday. It’s foggy up there and orientation’s tough. I use my phone with a map and GPS, but Nick navigates purely by map, compass and a guidebook. I take a short break, but there’s zero view, so no point dragging it out.

I say goodbye to Nick and start descending toward Shiel Bridge. The way down starts with a nice rocky traverse with a little wall, then more water and mud show up further along. I ended up on my butt three times. The scenery makes up for it though.

I reach Shiel Bridge after 4pm. Finally I’ve got signal and call home to Danka and the kids, instantly puts me in a better mood. I don’t stop in Shiel Bridge, continuing a bit further along asphalt to Morvich. In Morvich there’s a fantastic little shop, Kintail Crafts, with literally everything. I’m buying one extra pair of woollen socks, because I won’t be wearing those waterproof ones on my feet anymore (at most as slippers). I restock dried meat, also grab cheese, crisps and a local beer. Right next door is a local restaurant, and after three days I opt for a hot meal. I order a bowl of soup and some toast with bacon and onion. To go with it, a Skye Red and a Skye Gold beer. It’s half past 5 and I still have nowhere to sleep. I continue toward Falls of Glomach, looking for a suitable camping spot.

Two wild black goats cross my path in the forest, but when they spot me, they leap over the fence and run off. I’m not sure who was more startled. After about 7 km, I finally come across a little spot by the Allt an Leoid Ghaineamhaich stream. The soles of my feet were quite sore today. When I take off my shoes, I also find a blister on my big toe. I wash up and change my plasters. If I manage to keep my feet dry for at least a little while, it should be fine. I’m sitting on my sleeping mat with my feet on the grass; straight away, about 20 tiny ticks start crawling all over me – I have to keep an eye on them. I have dinner, write in my diary and go to sleep. Another long day awaits tomorrow.

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Corryhully bothy – Barrisdale bothy

44 km – 1535 m ↑ – 84 km total

It rains all night, luckily easing off by dawn. In the morning my roommates sing happy birthday to me, pour some Scotch whisky, and I say my goodbyes and head off. Today I’ve got 3 passes planned.

I reach the first one after about half hour of walking, and my feet stay dry for exactly that amount of time too. I’d put on Sealskinz waterproof socks — we’ll see how that goes. The climb up Bealach Allt n’ Chaoruinn (483 m) is nice, decent, readable trail alongside a stream, but the other side is a complete soggy mess after the rain.

Several times I can’t tell where the trail even is. It runs along the left bank of a small river, which you have to wade through at the end. Stepping on stones, you can make it across dry-footed. After 10 km I reach the bigger Pean river, luckily bridged. After crossing it I miss the turn and end up wandering around a marshy forest for a bit. After 20 minutes I find a forest road and after another 5 km reach A’chuill bothy. A beautifully remote spot in a meadow, but I push on toward the next pass, Bealach an Lagain Duibh (300 m). The way up is waterlogged, I have to jump around like a mountain goat. Monumental peaks tower all around — it looks like in the Lord of the Rings here.

Even the names sound alike — some are hard to read and even harder to pronounce. On the way down I pass a loch, Lochan a’Mhaim. Pretty little path, though underwater almost the whole way. Only near the end it does change, opening up to beautiful views of the Atlantic Ocean — Loch Nevis.

Down in the bay I sit for a bit at Sourlies bothy. Still fairly early and the bothy’s packed with Italians. I have an afternoon snack, dried meat and a flapjack, and continue. Next comes a stretch of beach walking toward the mouth of the Carnach river. Lucky me, it’s low tide, so I can walk the lower path too. The Carnach is a fairly big river, and before the bridge there’s a lot of treacherous bog.

I meet a guy from Ireland, we walk together for a bit, he wants to camp before the pass. I continue through the narrow valley alongside the Carnach river. There’s a nice camping spot along the way, under a cliff by the river, but it’s got already 2 tents and surely more people will join. Higher above the camp the river widens and I lose sight of the trail, sinking in. Toughest section so far. I’m almost at the end of the valley and need to turn left, steeply uphill, when I slip and fall onto my left pole. It’s bent — hopefully it holds until the end.

The Mam Unndalain pass (560 m) is the longest and toughest technical climb so far, easing off a bit only near the top. It’s foggy and pretty windy. I don’t linger and head down toward Barrisdale bay.

The way down is a reward — a beautiful dry trail, like the ones in the Low Tatras, with a view over Barrisdale bay – Loch Hourn. I meet 2 Englishmen and we chat a bit. They’re also heading to the bothy, but they’ll camp there. The bothy’s empty but fairly well equipped — 2 rooms, a small kitchen, water, and even a toilet and electricity. This one isn’t free, £5 a night into the honesty box. I take off the waterproof socks and my feet look terrible after 45 km — chafing right up to blisters. I put on compeed plasters, hopefully it’ll be okay tomorrow. Some guys from the trail arrive, one gives me tape to fix my pole — needs to hold. Later about 5 more guys arrive from the other direction, heading to Inverie tomorrow, home to the most remote pub in Scotland, the Old Forge. All this walking for a pint :P. They complain plenty about my planned 10 km stretch to Kinlochhourn tomorrow, saying it was awful. I have dinner and go to sleep, dry again. I’m exhausted and fall asleep instantly. Tomorrow’s the highest point of the route — Forcan Ridge, 720 m. Btw still no signal here at all, probably not until tomorrow at Shiel Bridge.

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Fort William – Corryhully bothy

40 km – 690 m ↑

In the morning Peťa drives me into town for the Camusnagaul ferry. We say our goodbyes — hopefully see each other again in 10 days. The little boat carries me across to the other shore of Loch Linnhe for 2 pounds, where the CWT begins.

On the ferry I meet Bill, an Englishman from Leeds, also starting today, so we walk the whole stretch of asphalt together to Cona Glen. Right as we enter the glen (glen means valley), it starts raining. Not heavy, but it lasts all day. I try out my poncho — works great, just flaps into my face in the wind. We walk together all the way to the private Corrlarach bothy. Walking in pair is great — Bill’s built like a mountain, calls himself a “fat bastard” himself . We part ways here, Bill says he’ll camp somewhere before Glenfinnan (we’ll cross paths again).

After 15 km through Cona Glen I climb over the trail’s first pass, Bealach Allt na Cruaiche (383 m). Beyond it the trail turns to nothing but water — my shoes get wet for the first time.

I descend into Glenfinnan over a closed footbridge (I don’t get why, looks perfectly fine), where the famous viaduct from the Harry Potter films stands.

I get coffee and a pastry at the local tourist café. Crowds are streaming back from the viaduct, so I figure I missed the train, no matter. Really busy here, so I push on quickly. After about 5 km, again on asphalt, I reach Corryhully bothy — today’s destination.

The bothy’s luxuriously equipped — there’s even electricity and a kettle. I settle in, take my first wash in the stream, and change into dry clothes. After a while the owner Alistair arrives, telling me to get the fire going since two more people are on their way. Jerry (60+) from Aberdeen shows up, doing the trek in sections, followed by Bill, who apparently didn’t feel like pitching a tent in that rain . About an hour later two girls from Czechia arrive too, doing just part of the trek. We chat until around 9 and go to sleep.

Rain’s forecast again tomorrow, and I want to push all the way to Barrisdale bothy, so we’ll see how it goes.

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